As this was my first backpacking experience I went with an organised trip. In doing so I’ve already been able to learn so much about traveling with the support of our knowledgable tour guide, Dara at G Adventures – what a legend this woman is with some great stories and crucially, advice! (Turns out you don’t need 10 sets of underwear after all and there’s certainly no need for hairspray!)
The trip I’m on starts in Vietnam, heads to Laos and finishes up in Thailand – 21 days in total. There are 17 of us in the group and I’m the eldest, which is an experience in itself! They’re all great people, all traveling for different reasons and all at different points on their journey. Our nationalities cover Iceland, Canada, New Zealand, Australia, Germany and the UK!
Map of the trip I’m on. Link here.
I’m writing this whilst on an overnight train from Hue heading to Hanoi, about a week into the trip. Each city has offered something very different. From the smog and chaos of Ho Chi Min, to the energy of Na Trang and the almost costal feel of Hoi An (maybe something to do with the river). I’ve been immersing myself fully in local cuisine and tradition, whilst making the most of the very basic accommodation.
I think I’m still adjusting to being away from home as the last week has been a blur. In fact to construct this entry I’ve had to ask my fellow travellers to remind me where we’ve been – it’s a fast-paced trip and we never stay in one place more than two days!
Days 1 & 2
Our first couple of days were spent in Ho Chi Min City (Capital of Vietnam) which was a real eye opener.
Ho Chi Min is intense with so many motorcycles buzzing around and a smog that is palpable. The Infrastructure is sketchy (I’d say the same for all of Vietnam so far), on first glance roads seem incredibly dangerous and as for hygiene… it leaves a lot to be desired for a clean-freak like me!
On the first day we went to visit the ‘tunnels’ in Vietnam. Back when Vietnam was divided into North and South, those in the South who pledged allegiance to the North (called ‘Viet Cong’) used these tunnels to defend and protect themselves. We were lucky enough to be shown around by Hai (pronounced ‘Hi’) who was a war veteran from the South Vietnam Army. He told us some incredibly moving tales and shared openly how tough the war had been on the country and him personally. Visiting the war museum afterwards really brought it home for me about how much the Vietnamese people have been through yet still they seem friendly, open and forgiving.
Hai and I at the site of the tunnels.
The people of this country know emotional and physical suffering. The Vietnam war has left a very tangible legacy because of something called ‘Agent Orange’ – a chemical sprayed over huge swathes of land during the war, designed to kill plants so the South Vietnamese Army (supported by the US) could see their ‘enemy’ in the North. Sadly, the chemical had an unexpected side effect – the chemical used was also harmful to humans. Now thousands of people have been born physically disabled because of their parents not realising they were infected. You can read more about it here.
Days 3 & 4
Our trip then took us by overnight train (quite an experience!) to Na Trang where we rented bikes to visit some ancient sites. If you’re imagining a leisurely bike ride with the wind in your hair, think again! The city has about 10,000 motorbikes per square meter and they’re all competing for space on the road! As a pedestrian, you watch in complete amazement as (miraculously!) the traffic keeps moving and nobody gets hurt. As a cyclist, it’s even more fascinating. I learned within about 30 seconds of starting out, that there were only two things I had to do – firstly, don’t hit anyone else. Secondly, trust that everyone else was committed to the same objective. It’s as simple as that. And it works. I felt safer on these chaotic roads than I ever have as a cyclist in the UK.
Days 5 & 6
We were meant to leave Na Trang and head to Ha Noi by another overnight train, but sadly a ferry crashed into a bridge, which meant the service was cancelled and we had to do the 10 hour overnight journey by bus instead. I barely slept before arriving in Ha Noi, which has been my favourite place so far.
Ha Noi is a quaint city with lots going on. In the evenings the streets are beautifully lit by hanging lanterns and the river provides a home to many boats, owned by locals who will take you on a ‘tour’ for less than the price of a coffee back home. I visited one of the infamous tailors to have some loose cotton trousers made and got tempted by a jewellers where I got a silver ring made with “learning to love me” engraved on it.
On the first day we went on a cycle tour through some of the rice paddies, proper local territory. There we were introduced to an elderly couple who still farm their own land. The guy is 92, his wife 85 and they’ve been married 70 years! Inspirational.
Day two in Hoi An was all about Abseiling at the Marble Mountain. This collection of mountains just outside the city centre stick out like a sore thumb, literally in the middle of flat surroundings. They are incredible inside, littered with caves containing shrines to Buddha. We abseiled 57m inside one of the mountains, the thrill was incredible (even if I did bump and scrape a little on the way down!)
At the top of the second descent.
Inside one of the caves.
There wasn’t much more time to take in this beautiful city before we had to head off once again to Hue by bus. This was about a 3 hour trip through some beautiful mountain scenery. Sadly the highest point with the best views was covered in cloud (literally had my head in the clouds!) but nevertheless, a local lady sold me some Oreos for about £1 ($0.70) so all was not lost!
Day 7 & 8
Arriving in Hue we headed to our hotel room, dumped our bags, grabbed a quick drink then waited for a convey of motorbikes to turn up. This was another highlight of the trip. We spent 4 hours zipping through the countryside lanes of Hue. These are places only the locals know. We visited a Buddhist Temple with Nuns, where we had a great vegetarian lunch, then went to visit a very special lady called Thuy.
Thuy was born with a disability. One of her arms does not have a forearm or hand. Despite this, she made the decision early in her life that she wouldn’t allow her disability to define her. She watched her mother making traditional Vietnamese hats and after hundreds of hours practice, has learned the art herself. People come from all over the city to purchase her hats and I decided to buy a little keepsake too!
Thuy making one of her infamous hats!
Last night was the first party night since being away. We went to a local bar where they stay open until ‘the last person is standing’. I managed 11.30pm before calling it a night (I blame jet lag!). This morning was our ‘free time’ before boarding the train at 3.30pm. I took time to visit the Citadel, where the last Emperor of Vietnam resided when it was still controlled by Dynasties (up to 1945). What an incredible place! I could only imagine the pomp and ceremony that took place there (especially as pictures of the Emperor aren’t far off some of the drag queens I’ve met in my time!).
Tomorrow we arrive in Hanoi and get to visit Halong Bay. It’s meant to be beautiful and I’m very much looking forward to it! Updates to follow.
Click here for my personal reflections.